Wednesday, November 30, 2016

2015 Arrowhead 135 Winter Ultra



All my life I've strived to make my family proud. Nothing has given me more pleasure than being able to inspire others thru my adventures. I am just a chubby kid with a bum wheel that had a dream. If I can do it, anyone can......

Where do I begin? I guess I have to begin by saying if I would have never had a dream or believed I could accomplish the goal it would have never happened. #DreamBig #BelieveToAchieve #ThereAreNoLimits

Against a lot of odds last year having just started exploring ultra running I somehow got into the Arrowhead 135. I wasn't even officially qualified having never run a 100 mile race. Registration itself was even long past closed. Some how the man holding the strings made the decision to let me in. Yes, I FAILED, but it may have set in motion a determination like no other. I had a whole year to figure out how to accomplish my goal. Not a day went by that I was not haunted by my failure. 

In that year I set forth on a journey. I had a lot of work to do. Reading Scott Jurek's book I came up with a plan to race my way to the Superior 100(my 1st 100 miler) and then on to the Arrowhead 135. I chose to do it that way because I have a hard time making the time for the long training runs. I feel guilty being away from my girls so long and so often. Without the support of an amazing wife I could have never done any of this! Thank you Babe for all that you do.

So, after the Arrowhead DNF in 2014 I signed up for and ran the Superior Spring 50k, Grandma's Marathon, Curnow trail Marathon, Voyageur 50, and the Superior Sawtooth 100. I used the races as my long training runs for the most part. I also trained mostly off road and did a lot of exploring of Jay Cooke and the Superior Hiking Trail from Carlton to Two Harbors. After recovering from Sawtooth I started pulling my bike trailer that I had Gerryrigged to pull with my harness instead of a bike. While runnin I'd load it with the mandatory gear and some extra weight. During deer season I even knocked out a 50k on the treadmill. The Arrowhead 135 is unsupported and requires you to carry or pull certain gear for survival or self rescue along with all your water, food, and clothing to last 2 1/2 days in the woods where it can get down to -50 degrees at the end of January. December and January weren't very good months for training. The lack of snow had the trails in absolutely terrible condition. I spent way more time on the treadmill than I like. I think I only got 3 or 4 actual sled pull runs once we did finally get enough snow.

This year my cousin Todd decided to come up from South Carolina. He seemed intreaged  at the concept of a 135 mile race in the dead of winter. I was glad to have him, but I had to explain to him that it's an unsupported race. Meaning he couldn't offer any help what so ever. I even made him read the rules. I was a little worried that he'd get bored so I asked him to sign up to volunteer. I figured it would help pass the time. Secretly I new he would love it and hoped this would rub off on him and he'd start doing this stuff. 

We got to International Falls(one of the coldest cities in the lower 48) the day before the race for gear check and the pre-race meeting. We stayed in the same little hotel I stayed in last year. What a difference a year makes. The temps were 50 to 70 degrees warmer depending what you went by. This year I was smart. I brought earplugs for sleeping in the hotel. I actually got a full nights sleep.

At 6:50am we headed to the start line. After a quick check in I found a spot near the back of the pack. I had a game plan but it was a very loose one. My only goal was to finish and also not to lead the race in the first 5 miles like last year. After the command was given to release the hounds things stayed single file for a while. The trail was not to bad considering we had a fresh 4 inches of powder snow overnight. Soon I was passed by John Storkamp. Knowing I could learn a thing or two from him I locked in behind him. Anyone that runs around here knows him. He is the race director of all the Superior ultra races, the Zumbro ultra races, and is one outstanding runner in his own right having won multiple Arrowheads. He also won the Curnow this year and two weeks later took 6th at the Voyageur 50. So to make a long story short I had no business running with him.:-) We got to talking about how fast his Spring races filled and I told him I tried getting in but the website kicked me out. The race sold out in hours. I also told him how cool it was that he was answering emails right back of people that were having trouble. My buddy Stu was having trouble and John emailed him right back.  It's a testament to the quality of the operation he runs. As we chatted he made me a deal. He said that if I finished the 135miles or if he DNF'd he'd get me into the sold out race.  I said, "Shit, it's a done deal!" I knew he wouldn't be DNF'ing. This was going to be his 10th time finishing. I wouldn't have taken him up on that one anyway. That left me only one option. I had to finish! The 1st leg went good except for the fact I ran out of water AGAIN. With 10 miles to go to the check point I was eating snow as a substitute. I arrived at Gateway earlier this year but within minutes of last years time. However last year I was in 8th place. This year I was in 19th. That goes to show you the how the quality of the field is growing every single year. This year for example I read that the top 3 finishers of the Badwater 135 were here. 

Knowing I needed to rehydrate I took the time to have my soaking wet clothes dried. The AWE-some volunteers at gateway will take runners clothes and put them in a drier for you. I drank 2 Gatorades and also bought 2 for the trail. I also bought a huge helping of home made made mac&cheese and a big old cup of coffee. Before departing I filled both my hydro pack and my 2 one liters insulated bottles. It's a fine line we walk between having enough and keeping the weight down in our sled. I also bought a 20oz Mt Dew. Which tasted like the nectar of the Gods later that night. 

I left Gateway after a hour and 23 minutes.

By now darkness had fallen. I stayed a little longer than planned, but was able to rehydrate and was feeling really good. I absolutely love running at night. This may have been my best section of the race. I passed a lot of people  thru the night. I also came up on the co-race directors of the Tuscobia Winter Ultra, Chris and Helen Scotch. I was content just tailing them knowing that they too are much better runners than me. They finished 9th and 10th here last year and I think I read that Helen set the Voyageur 50 mile course record at one time. Helen was leading Chris with me following close behind. Soon we came down to a little bridge crossing a small creek. As Chris headed up the hill after the bridge his tow rope broke on his sled. I guess because of the upslope he couldn't feel that he had lost it. Luckily I was right there to let him know. We got a good chuckle out of it later thinking how it would feel to look back and realize your sled was gone and not knowing where or when you lost it. Both Chris & Helen must have stopped for a bit to get him rehooked. I kept motoring and realing other runners in. This section is very hilly and tough going, but I felt good throughout. Just before dawn I got to Elephant Lake. The section leading into the check point actually crosses Elephant lake. It don't seem far on a map, but in reality it seems to go on forever. You don't see the light of the resort until you are almost there.

My plan was to get in and out quickly of Melgorges. However, once you start to get warm and comfortable the plan quickly changes. As soon as I take a seat the lovely volunteers are bringing me hot soup and a sandwich. I had been day dreaming of these sandwiches for many hours having read rave reviews on them in other race reports. Here too I was able to have my wet clothes dried. Again, I did it more out of an excuse to stay longer than necessity. As I had extra stuff in my sled. As I waited for my gear the couch seemed to suck me in. Soon my eyes were closed. I am unsure how much sleep I got, but I must have slept at least a half hour continuously. Then I got a hot cup of coffee. Over 2 hours had passed. I listened to other runners as we all sat around contemplating heading back out. It's a great opportunity to learn from veteran racers. I try to soak it all in. I realize I needed to get back out on the trail. The next section was a long one. I filled all my water containers and grabbed my measly drop bag of grub. All I had was a box of nutty bars and some peanuts. Both of which I was already sick of.

After hooking up to my sled Todd popped out of the Suburban to see me off. I asked him which way to the trail as he had been sitting there watching runners come and go for 2 hours.  He thought I was supposed to go back the way I came. That just didn't make sence to me. So I unhooked and went back into the cabin again to ask. Todd had seen racers heading that way probably because the had rented cabins. As soon I I got back on the trail the hills began again with a vengeance. After a few hours alone on the trail I came to a big hill and Kamie was at the top snapping photos while she waited for her husband Mike.
Photo credit to Kamie Slegers Nicholls

I remembered them from last year. I gave her husband Mike some of my extra hand warmers after I DNF'd as he was going to continue despite the brutal cold. It was nice to see and talk to someone  as the trail had gone eerily quiet.
Photo credit Kamie Slegers Nicholls

I was even beginning to think nobody was left behind me. I thought everyone must have given up because the trail conditions just kept getting worse. The further east we went the more snow they had gotten. The trail was like running on sugar. After seeing Todd at Melgorges I told him it might be a good idea if he stayed away for a while and maybe go get a room somewhere. I also told him that under no circumstance should he let me quit and get in the  Suburban. There was only one way I was coming off that course and it was via the finish line. 

After motoring all day night fell. After a couple hours of darkness I came to a shelter where other racers and volunteers had made a fire. I pulled in to grab a bite to eat and warm my feet that had been wet since the start. A skier was cooking an MRE looking thing on the fire. I was licking my chops out of jealousy. After a quick 5 I was movin again. As the second midnight neared I started looking for the next check point. I kept seeing red blinking lights thru the trees as the trail snaked up and down through the woods. After a while I realized they were from some sort of cell towers. Finally I came to a Surley sign. The final check point had to be close! I'm now using all my senses trying to find the aid station in the pitch black. Every turn I stop and listen. I smell to see if i can smell the camp fire. I look thru trees hoping to see light or the outline of a tent, something, anything that would tell me I had made it. I keep moving. Still more Surley signs saying I'm close. Now I'm just getting mad. It's as if the signs are mocking me. It seems like an hour since I saw the first sign. Finally I come around a corner and cheering erupts. Now I'm happy. I've made to ski pulk the final check point. One of the race sponsors Surley Bicycles has a teepee set up with a wood stove inside to heat water for coffee and such.
It's also a warm place to change into dry clothes. At first I sit on the ground at the fire they have going outside even tho I was offered a chair. I put my feet as close to the fire as I can. Soon I feel the wetness of the ground and decide to take the chair after all. After a few minutes I hear Todd's  voice. I turn around and look. He's standing there with my Uncle Lloyd. They are surprised to see that I beat them there. They ask how I'm doing. I still feel remarkable well. Todd says ,"how come you don't have poles?" Jokingly I say,"I don't need no stinking poles." I refill my water and get the best cup of coffee ever which I added 2 scoops of cocoa to. It was so good I go back and get another right away. They also have cookies. Thinking the last section would be slow and cold I put on dry clothes and ski bibs as I readied myself for departure. I asked the mileage to the finish and made some guesses as to how long this last section should take. 25 miles to the end. Anyone can do 25 miles. Before departing I make sure to thank the awesome Surley guys by shaking their hands. These guys are amazing! Not only are they outstanding volunteers, but they have some of the best beards I have ever seen! I have some major #BeardEnvy going on.

Off I went. As soon as I hit the trail I realize I made a huge mistake with the ski bibs. I stop and change back into what I had been wearing the whole time. Back to running tights and wind pants. Only one major climb left but it was a doozy. They call it wakemup hill. At the top I see Chris sitting in a shelter just chillin. I guessed he was waiting for Helen so they could maybe finish together again like last year. Soon I see one of the longest down hills yet. I get in my sled and ride it to the bottom. Somehow I am able to maneuver the corner at the bottom. Now it's a long flat 20 some odd miles left to go. All I needed to do was keep moving forward. I pass a couple people bivvied on the side of the trail. It is hard to get used to seeing people on the side of the trail sleeping. It is as if it's against the laws of nature. Soon I to found myself slowing to a crawl. I hadn't eaten since ski pulk. Now my lower back was beginning to hurt something fierce. I was regretting my not needing poles comment BIG TIME!! I would stop and bend over to stretch out my back. As I'd bend over the lack of sleep was catching up to me. After bending over I would awake finding myself standing still in the middle of a spuce swamp. Finally after doing this a few times I find a spot to pull over and sleep. Instead of taking the time to pull my sleeping bag out I decide to put a winter jacket on and just lay on top of my gear. I look at my watch to see what time it was and then pull my face mask up over my face and close my eyes. Soon I wake to cold feet as they have been soaking wet for 2 days so it don't take long. I may have only been down 15 minutes but I have to get moving again to regain feeling in my toes. After only about a half hour it's happening again. I find myself bent over and asleep standing up in the middle of the trail. This time I don't waste time looking for a good spot. I take my sled to the deep snow off the trail and pack down an area to sleep yet again. This time I must have slept longer because my wet feet were even colder. This put a little scare into me but not too much. I get moving again as it begins to get light again. I have been running thru 3 sunrises now. My mind is starting to play tricks on me. I am doing my best to follow along on the map, but nothing seems to be making sense. I have myself convinced I just crossed hwy 77 and only have 1.5 miles to go. So I start running as fast as my body will allow. Soon a half hour passes. I had been running longer then it should have taken to get to where I thought the casino was. I'm searching thru the tree tops despritely looking for the roof tops of the casino. Then up ahead I see what looks like a SUV on the side of the trail. As I run toward it a snowmobile comes around the corner and stops next to me. I ask him how much farther? He say,"10 miles." My jaw drops!! I am still able to find humor and laugh at him. He asked,"how far did you think it was?" I reply by saying, "2 miles." I look at my watch and recalculate my finish time. It still gets me in 2 hours better than my worse case time I figured at Ski Pulk. I still think there may be a SUV up ahead. Finally when I get there I realize it's just a couple spruce trees clumped together. I try to pick up the pace just to get it over with. Soon I see John Bertrum closing in on me. John helped convince me to pull out last year. I find myself able to hold him off for a while, but he is relentless. I study the sky line trying to figure how close I am to the last road crossing. The trail just keeps going and my mind starts to just gives up as the road just doesn't seem to come. I sit down on my gear to take a break as John finally closes the gap. I tell him I give up. I just need a little break. He disappears up around a corner. I get back up and trudge on. Now my lower back is getting  unbearable. I seem to slow even more. I do the math again in my head. I have to be near the road. The snowmobile comes back around the corner and stops. I hold up 2 fingers as if to ask if it's only 2 miles to go. The guy on the snowmobile signals that it's 5. It just isn't making sense. Again I do the math to what I think my pace is. I should still be able to get in by noon. 7 hours ahead of the cut off. Now the wheels start to come off. Every time I look back I have someone closing on me. I realize I haven't eaten since leaving Ski Pulk. No wonder my brain isn't working. I had food left but the thought of it made me sick. I'd been eating the same thing for 2 1/2 days and was sick of it. As I reach the finally road crossing I'm passed by 3 guys. Now every 1/4 mile I have to stop and stretch my back. Soon I'm met by 2 runners that had already finished and cleaned up. One of which tied for second place I was later told. They start asking me questions about what I thought of the course and video my response. I tell them I have a whole new respect for the course and the people that do this every year.  I told them this was the hardest thing I had ever done in my life. They inform me I only have a few hundred yards to go. Finally I climb the last hill.

I stop at the top to stretch one last time. Then I proceed to run thru the finish line to the cheers of about 5 people.
2 of which were with me. We take a few pics and the race official whisks me off to do a gear check. 

As we ride up the elevator I tell my cousin I think one and done may be good enough for this one.

Good things come to those that dare to dream. 


After a shower and quick 3 hour nap I realize we had time to go to the finish to see the last racer come in. I was surprised I was getting around so well. We even took the stairs.

I finally get to sport my Arrowhead jacket that I bought last year. Having not finished I refused to wear it until completing the race.

(#FindingShackleton) The Shackleton award is giving to the last racer to finish.(usually) Quite a few people had gathered at the finish awaiting the arrival of the last racer Jim Wilson. We were all cheering "Wilson" for him as he came in. He was the final racer to finish, but didn't end up getting the award for being out on the course they longest. They also take in to account the time you spend in aid stations. 

We high fived him. You could tell he knew he just accomplished a monumental task.

Then it was off to devour the biggest steak I could find. 

All that was left to do was celebrate!
By the second one of these I was already hashing a plan to return. I knew I could do better😜 See you next year Ken!

Thank you so much to all the wonderful
People that make this race happen. You are amazing folks.